Tramkazan Falls | WI5 | First Ascent | Ice Climbing in Kashmir

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After a Decade of Attempts Since 2015, Tramkazan Falls, Pahalgam, Finally Sees First Ascent

Zeeshan leading the second pitch, WI5, with Enrico on belay.  Photo by Waleed
Ice climbing, a thrilling and challenging sport, was at its peak season globally, and I was inspired to explore its potential in my homeland, Kashmir, a region where the sport is currently uncommon. My research revealed a brief period of ice climbing activity in Kashmir, from 2015 to 2018, centered around a specific location in Pahalgam, beyond the village of Phraslun. These multi-day events, organized by JK Tourism and JKMHC, with equipment provided by either JK Tourism or JIM&WS, unfortunately ceased after 2018. My passion for climbing and mapping, combined with my desire to revive ice climbing in Kashmir, led me on a quest to rediscover the location of these past climbs. Through a detailed map study, I identified the stream as Tramkazan nar, a 45-minute hike from the road, situated on the opposite side of the East Lidder river. The ice formation itself is approximately 50 meters high. Interestingly, during these years, no one had successfully completed the route.

Gearing up, photo by Ali Tariq
"I said that one day I would say, 'I did it,' and I have done it." These words encapsulate a decade of dedication, perseverance, and unwavering belief. Never stop dreaming; anything is possible. Be your best version of yourself, identify your goals, stay focused and motivated, and above all, have patience. The moment will come.

Since 2015, climbers in Kashmir have been drawn to the challenge of Tramkazan Falls. Over the years, many, including myself, have attempted to complete this route. I had made numerous attempts since last year, consistently reaching the 35-meter mark before the exposure and technical difficulties forced my retreat. The significant drop below, combined with a tricky, bulging section of ice resembling a cauliflower and the final vertical pillar, presented a daunting challenge. The growing fear of these obstacles always led to my descent.

at second pitch, photo by Enrico

A recent trip to Keylong with Karn proved to be a turning point. I honed my technique for climbing steep, vertical ice pillars, gaining the confidence I needed to confront the challenges of Tramkazan Falls. The very next day after returning from Keylong, I, along with Enrico from Italy, stood at the top. Together, we achieved the first ascent of this two-pitch route, graded WI5 and 50 meters in length.

I always believed in my ability to complete this climb; I simply needed the catalyst to overcome the challenging, bulging section. I’m immensely grateful to Enrico for his support and for his patience during our long climb. He played a crucial role in my finally achieving this goal. Everything is easier when you have people supporting you along the way. Without Enrico, this achievement would have been much more difficult.

Finally, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to Allied Safety Equipment and Trekkit.in for their invaluable support in making this climb possible. Their contributions were essential to my success.

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